Apparently
fashion is something so ugly it has to be changed every 15 minutes (that’s
Senser paraphrasing Oscar Wilde). Which
is exactly what I will try to illustrate here.
It can also be right down ridiculous, monstrous even. Great to look at and a real bastard to wear. Most of the costumes I will deal with, are nothing else then elaborate, ornate torture instruments. But applied willingly (in most cases) and worn with pride. I can only imagine how it must have felt to dress like this all your life. 5 thick petticoats under an enormous skirt in a hot summer; a muslin gown no thicker than a tissue in a crappy English November; steel corsets and monster wigs of the XVII century Spanish court; elk skin pants so tight that one had to get into a bath to take them off (to get them wet and loosened up a bit); ruffs so big you forgot what your body looks like from the neck down after a couple of years ; headdresses the size of a child car seat; so much bling that you could hardly move under its weight.
Stuff that made you unable to sit (or bend in any way), walk, or breathe properly… Dresses that resembled balloons, bells or heavy armour. Hairstyles that would make early Lady Gaga look like a convent novice. And if we’re getting down to details and accessories: how about a penis etui that worked as a purse (will explain later)? Or a dead sable with a golden head used as a fashion accessory (and to repel fleas. seriously)?
Getting too absurd? No. Just odd. And glorious, because it all looked so god damn magnificent! So here is my ode to the Glorious Oddity – or at least its costume division. A word of warning – I am not a professional costume historian; rather an educated aficionado, so forgive me for occasional fuckups and inaccuracies. I hope what you see and read will be so absurd, that they will just slip by unnoticed.
It can also be right down ridiculous, monstrous even. Great to look at and a real bastard to wear. Most of the costumes I will deal with, are nothing else then elaborate, ornate torture instruments. But applied willingly (in most cases) and worn with pride. I can only imagine how it must have felt to dress like this all your life. 5 thick petticoats under an enormous skirt in a hot summer; a muslin gown no thicker than a tissue in a crappy English November; steel corsets and monster wigs of the XVII century Spanish court; elk skin pants so tight that one had to get into a bath to take them off (to get them wet and loosened up a bit); ruffs so big you forgot what your body looks like from the neck down after a couple of years ; headdresses the size of a child car seat; so much bling that you could hardly move under its weight.
Stuff that made you unable to sit (or bend in any way), walk, or breathe properly… Dresses that resembled balloons, bells or heavy armour. Hairstyles that would make early Lady Gaga look like a convent novice. And if we’re getting down to details and accessories: how about a penis etui that worked as a purse (will explain later)? Or a dead sable with a golden head used as a fashion accessory (and to repel fleas. seriously)?
Getting too absurd? No. Just odd. And glorious, because it all looked so god damn magnificent! So here is my ode to the Glorious Oddity – or at least its costume division. A word of warning – I am not a professional costume historian; rather an educated aficionado, so forgive me for occasional fuckups and inaccuracies. I hope what you see and read will be so absurd, that they will just slip by unnoticed.
To start
with – something simple and obvious. A countdown of my favourite horrendous
dresses. Wish me luck.
The rowers
are obviously in awe, and so am I. How did she manage to step off the boat in
that dress??? I mean it is so tight fitting that it turns lifting a leg into an
Olympic achievement! This lovely maiden is literally bound from her neck down
to her knees. And this is not all. She is most likely hiding a bustle behind
her behind. Not a big one, this is a leisure dress (believe it or not) after
all. But still, there it is – looming on the left side, getting adequate
attention from both men. That makes me wonder not only how she got out, but
also how the hell did she managed to sit and fit in that narrow boat. Remember,
bending (knees, waist, shoulders) is almost out of the question AND she’s got a
few good square meters of fabric draped and piled up on her rear. But the worst
of it is going on underneath that pretty dress. The cuirass bodice got its name for
a reason. In 1874 it is a new and terrifying piece of equipement. A bloody monster of a garment. Extra
reinforced, extra stiff, extra long. Reaching below the hips, shaping and
molding so you can become perfectly slender, smooth and straight. Sure, it
crushes your ribs and squeezes your organs into the shape and place they should
never occupy… but look at her! She’s fit and she knows it!

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